After a very comfortable flight with British Airways into Nairobi from Heathrow I was met by our ground handler in arrivals and assisted with my luggage to a waiting car. I was met by Joseph, who drove me through Nairobi to 'Karen' a popular district for stopovers on the outskirts of Nairobi.
As we pulled into the sweeping driveway of the House of Waine a softly lit colonial style family manor stood in well kept gardens silent apart from resident crickets.
My room at the House of Waine was very comfortable indeed, large in size, with huge drapes, high ceilings and elegant furniture the king size bed although huge looked lost. The lounge and bar area was very elegant with a wonderfully stocked bar and deep leather sofas.
After a refreshing night’s sleep I flew by light aircraft to the Amboseli Nationl Park, a beautiful park to the south of Nairobi home to an immense number of elephant and a broad spectrum of game.
The Amboseli’s vast horizons stretch as far as the eye can see all the way to the foothills of the surrounding mountain ranges that are punctuated with Mount Kilimanjaro, majestic in the distance. As my visit was towards the very end of the dry season the plains were dry and parched, with dust clouds stirred with every wildlife movement, making even the most hidden of animals easily seen in the distance. With dust devils twirling and spiralling against the backdrop of blue skies, the Amboseli is the most magical of places with elephants looming into view on which ever horizon you focus on.
Tortilis camp was absolutely superbly located, set out on the slopes of a volcanic foothill with open plains stretching out beyond the watering hole that brings game viewing close to enjoy from camp.
Bart and Mary are superb hosts, friendly and welcoming, immediately putting me at ease and enabling me to enjoy Tortilis camp immensely. The food at Tortilis was unfaultable, wholesome with varied choice, excellent salad and fruits at each course.
Joy’s camp itself has ten tented suites that are large and airy with swathes of light colourful material to the edges a marble effect floor and a private veranda all decorated with Bedouin style. Meal times at Joy’s, (if not arranged as a bush breakfast or picnic whilst out on safari) are taken on the large decking area that benefits from excellent views across to the watering hole outside of camp. Joy’s camp also boasts a refreshing pool in a quiet corner of camp for those wishing to cool off between game drives.
My guide at Joy’s was called Justice and he did Shaba and Joy’s exactly that, he pointed out a variety of game and offer an informed account of their habitat and behaviour that had me enthralled. From Joy’s camp I saw the Grevy’s zebra, Recticulated giraffe, gerenuk, elephant, buffalo, cheetah and Lion, in addition to many species of birds.
After two nights in Shaba I flew back to Nanyuki to connect with a scheduled flight into the Masai Mara.
On arrival at Elephant Pepper Camp I was warmly welcomed by the camp hosts Sam and Flick who ensure all of the smooth running and that everyday is as enjoyable as the last if not better! Elephant Pepper Camp is a luxury but traditionally styled bush camp. With all the comforts you could require whilst on safari without losing the feeling of being in the bush. The camp has walk in tents that boast wonderfully comfortable beds with crisp cotton sheets and fluffy pillows, wrought iron furniture, washstands, flush toilets and wonderful hot bucket showers organised by camp whenever you request. The Elephant Pepper Camp staff were very attentive and make every moment memorable. Each evening a fire is lit in front of the dining tent where all can sit and chat and recount the day.
The game drives from Elephant Pepper Camp were superb, on one I was fortunate enough to visit Leopard Gorge where we were pleased to be welcomed by three lioness and ten cubs all playing chase and pounce in the morning sun, closely watched by mum.
After two nights at Elephant Pepper Camp I was transferred (enjoyed a game drive!) to my next camp, Richard's camp.
From Richard's camp I took advantage of the opportunity to visit a nearby rhino conservation project and also a Masai village, both of which experiences will remain with me.
Whilst in the Masai area I was fortunate to see, many topi, impala, grant’s gazelle, masai giraffe, buffalo, cheetah, lion, leopard, wildebeest and zebra in addition to one solitary aardvark grubbing around for ants.
Leaving the Masai Mara concluded my safari experience as it was then time to head to the coast.
The sweeping beach of powder white sand at Manda slips very gently towards the warm Indian Ocean making for very calm warm waters in which to swim, snorkel or dive a little further out.
The airy and cool thatched bandas at Manda Bay are all set out along the beach commanding superb views of the calm ocean.
The island is fantastic as both a relaxing hideaway and also as an excellent place to enjoy a variety of watersports. The food at Manda was mouth watering with the focus on locally caught seafood and dining is under the stars on the beach with tables lit by lantern light.
Manda Bay is a truly wonderful place to spend a few days to a week after a safari in Kenya.
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